Varanasi Travel Guide

Travel to Varanasi - Stunning Holy City On The Ganges

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Taking its modern name from the twin rivers of the Varana to the north and the Asi to the south the city is still known throughout the country as Benares. The name Kashi, predates it though being traceable back three thousand years to describe the kingdom and city outside which the Buddha preached his first sermon; the "City of Light".

This is the city of Shiva: legend relates how, after his marriage to Parvati, Shiva left his Himalayan abode and came to reside in Varanasi with all the gods in attendance. Temporarily banished during the rule of the great king Divodasa, Shiva sent Brahma and Vishnu as his emissaries, but ultimately returned to his rightful abode.

This city has as a result of these associations been a pilgrimage spot for millennia. The town’s old city, Godaulia, is made up of an almost unfathomable network of ornate backstreets too narrow for vehicles. Tea stalls, dharamsalas (pilgrim rest-houses) ashrams (places of religious study), restaurants, travellers’ guesthouses and shops all jostle for position. The sound of chanting and bells mixes with the grunts of the holy cows who make their way slowly through the streets whilst the smoke from funeral pyres twists into the sky.

The ghats (steps leading down to the river) draw people at all times of the day, but especially at dawn when pujas are said as the sun rises on the opposite bank of the Ganges.

A day or two in Varanasi has most Western visitors asking questions of themselves and few places in the world can have had such a profound impact on millions of people over thousands of years.

Attractions in Varanasi

As the sun rises casting a mellow glow on the ghats thousands of people come to pray and bathe in the river. It is this atmosphere that is the attraction of Varanasi. This in turn comes from the architectural masterpieces that line the riverside ghats and from the pilgrims, yogis and mendicants that live here or are passing through.

As you would expect there are thousands of temples and shrines in this city of Shiva. A guidebook (or better still, a reputable guide) is the best way to discover the many temples and shrines that have interesting histories; the Vishwanath Temple is perhaps the city’s most famous.

Outside the city lies Sarnath, where the Lord Buddha gave his first sermon, quiet and relaxing it is the antithesis of Varanasi. On the opposite side of the river from the ghats Ramnagar Fort and Museum makes a great place to visit if it’s all getting too much.

At Chunar, 40km from Varanasi, a fort overlooks the Ganges.

Varanasi is noted for its silk saris and a visit to a workshop is interesting. Varanasi is a popular place to learn yoga and traditional Indian musical instruments for those with time.

Activities in Varanasi

An early morning boat ride on the Ganges is essential and is the best way of gaining an initial impression of the city from an perspective that is easier to grasp.

Once back on dry land the main ghat is called Dasaswamedh Ghat and in both directions from here the palaces of maharajas, dharamsalas and ashrams stretch away into the distance. The best approach is to simply wander and see where you end up. Your senses will be fully occupied as you gaze at sights never seen before, and not always pleasant.

Relaxing

There are many backpackers’ restaurants crowning the roofs of Godaulia and these make great places to chill out and relax.

Getting Around

Godaulia, the old city of the ghats, can only be explored on foot. Boats are available on the river and elsewhere auto-rickshaws and taxis are the order of the day.

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