Termessos Travel Guide
Discover a Fortress City in Rugged Mountains
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The Termessian people originally came from an area to the north of the Tauros Mountains around 1000BC. They saw the potential of the site and built impregnable fortifications to protect themselves and to tax passing caravans. Life at this time was one of attack and counter-attack, but the warlike nature of the Termessians ensured they prevailed; today the extensive and dramatic remains are one of Turkey’s wonders and a must-see for anyone in the Mediterranean region.
The area of lakes beyond the Tauros Mountains to the north of Antalya gave rise to a Pisidian people known as the Solymians who migrated south sometime around 1000BC to establish their base at what we know today as Termessos.
The high and rugged Tauros are unapproachable by invaders from the north and they plunge from Termessos to the Pamphilian plain providing the perfect place to build their city and from which to tax traders making their way along the coast. They prospered and repelled any attempt to subjugate them including one by the almost-invincible Alexander the Great in 333BC. Politically savvy they made a treaty with Rome who in all likelihood were happy not to have to contemplate engaging them in war; Termessos’ coins never featured the head of a Roman emperor, unlike other cities in the region.
The city’s long life came to an end when a powerful earthquake destroyed an aqueduct denying the city its water supply. The year of this event remains unknown, however many of the remains have been dated to the 3rd century AD, so a date around this time is most likely.
Attractions in Termessos
Termessos is located in one of the most dramatic settings of any of Turkey’s ancient cities and sitting 1000m above sea level its impressive mountain backdrop alone makes it worth the hike. This impregnable fortress-city in the main dates from the period 400 to 40 BC. It comprises defensive walls beyond which lie a well-preserved gymnasium, agora, mausoleum, colonnaded street (whose shops can still be seen), wonderful odeion and several temples, the Temple of Zeus being the best preserved and with great views.
The southern necropolis is located beyond the main site and is a vast area of tumbledown tombs broken open by successive earthquakes. The highlight of any visit though is undeniably the superb theatre, which superlatives fail to do justice, its well-preserved seating and stage area (built in the Roman style yet preserving Greek elements), looks out over a stunning view falling away towards the coastal plain.
Activities in Termessos
Visitors today should be well-prepared for the climb up to Termessos – the city is difficult to approach and a visit involves lots of stiff climbing to reach even the first notable remains; set off early in the morning and bring plenty of sun-protection and water; comfortable footwear is essential. Allow at least 4 or 5 hours to walk up, explore the site and descend – more if making the walk on to the southern necropolis 2 kilometres or so beyond the theatre. Taking a local guide will help explain the site and the history of the Termessian people however this needs to be arranged in advance through a local travel expert.
Relaxing
The theatre makes a great place to relax, enjoying the view and sensing the history of this dramatic fortress-city.
Getting Around
Lying some 35km north of Antalya city Termessos remains difficult to approach today as it was 2000 years ago. Taxis can be hired for the journey and will wait whilst you explore, but given the length of time most people want to devote to exploring the site this is an expensive option. As elsewhere in Turkey a driver-guide is probably the best way of getting to and exploring the site; if taking this option you could also fit in a visit to Aspendos in the afternoon, saving time overall. Finally, the site can be approached by public bus (take one headed for Korkuteli and get off at the entrance to the national park – Güllük Dağ Milli Parkı). From here you can sometimes take a taxi the 9km up to the site entrance, otherwise you will have to walk or hitch a ride.
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