Sur Travel Guide
Historic Home of the Dhow
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Located on a large lagoon the coastal town of Sur is the place to come if you want to see how the traditional Arabian dhow is built, today as it always has been, by hand. Could have been that Sindbad the Sailor hailed from Sur – legend at both here and at Sohar, as well as Basra in Iraq indicates so.
Thought to be derived from the local name for Tyre in Lebanon the town of Sur perhaps has connections with the Phoenicians. Sur played a major part in the trade between Oman, East Africa, and India and was established as a great trading port as long ago as the 6th century. A variety of goods were imported and exported through its port and it is perhaps not surprising that it became renowned for its shipbuilding, with great ocean-going, high-sterned baghala and ghanja ships in continuous production.
Its decline was heralded by the division between Oman and Zanzibar in 1861 and the arrival of the British India Steam Navigation Company which operated between India and the Gulf region. This has a terrible effect on trade and shipbuilding with the opening of the Suez Canal making things worse. It’s decline had begun and yet Sur manages to hang on. Seven privately operated boatyards still make dhows using traditional methods – built by eye, without plans and from the outside in using traditional teak and acacia wood.
Attractions in Sur
The dhow boatyards are of course the main attraction whilst the Sur Maritime Museum charts the history of shipbuilding in the town. Al Ayjah a few kilometres from Sur is a great place to see examples of local-style and interesting old houses. Also within reach are the fabulous Wadi Shab and the turtle beaches of Ras al Jinz.
Activities in Sur
Allow a half day to explore the shipyards and museum, a little longer if including Al Ayjah
Relaxing
A wander through the backstreets of Al Ayjah before watching sunset from a vantage point is almost impossibly romantic
Getting Around
Sur is easily included on a loop from Muscat to Nizwa, the Wahiba Sands and back to Muscat along the coast. Inter-city buses run from Muscat to Sur but are not a practical way of getting to and from the town in one day, given the distance from Muscat.
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