Shikoku's largest town and capital of Ehime Prefecture with a population of more than 510,000 Matsuyama nevertheless is one of those places that manages to retain, a laid-back atmosphere. It also has the distinction of being home to one of Japan's best-preserved feudal castles (and, it has to be said) a fantastic public bathhouse.

Located right in the heart of the city Matsuyama Castle tops a 131m hill and as a result has an impressive view. Built by lord Kato Yoshiakira more than 400 years ago the castle came under the command of the powerful Matsudaira family who ruled the surrounding region from here during the Edo Period. It has suffered fire and other destructive forces over the years however has always been carefully renovated with original materials, marking differences with, say, Osaka and Nagoya castles.

There is just a single entrance that leads through a number of gates designed to entrap the enemy and a secret entrance allowed a surprise rear attack. A 3-storey donjon today displays samurai artefacts, swords, screens and scrolls from the Matsudaira family, as well as photographs of Japan's other castles.

As mentioned, also in Matsuyama is the Dogo Onsen Honkan, a Meiji Period, wooden public bathhouse, dating from 1894.