Kathmandu Travel Guide

Medieval Backstreets of Asia’s Most Exotic Capital

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Nepal’s modern history starts in the 14th century when King Jayasthiti Malla established a rigid social order, his grandson trying in every way to protect his country from suspected enemy states. Unfortunately, all his efforts were in vain and eventually the country divided up into 50 small feudal states including the three major ones in the Kathmandu Valley – Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur. The Shah dynasty followed the Mallas with King Prithvi Narayan Shah annexing small principalities including the three states in the Kathmandu Valley and, in the late 18th century, unifying Nepal into a single kingdom. Recognizing the threat of the British Raj in India he dismissed European missionaries from the country heralding 150 years of isolation from the West. During the mid-19th century Jung Bahadur Rana became Nepal's first Prime Minister to wield absolute power but was overthrown in a democracy movement in the early 1950s when, in 1951, power reverted to the Shah’s.

As we see Nepal has seen many rulers and ruling dynasties but it was the Mallas who focussed on building in the Kathmandu Valley making no other part of Nepal as rich in cultural heritage as the capital. Thanks to the exceptionally talented craftsmen who dedicated themselves to constructing the many temples and statues the Kathmandu Valley has an amazing seven World Heritage Sites. The wonderful atmosphere that the city possesses is a result of their amazing skill, and the years of isolation in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Attractions in Kathmandu

The main attractions of Kathmandu lie in and around the Durbur Square area of the city. Said to have more temples than homes this gives an indication of the wealth of cultural attractions to be seen. Small crowded lanes radiate from Durbur Sqare itself dotted with temples such as the Kasthamandap which gave the city its name, the Shiva-Parvati Temple and the Maju Deval – a great place to while away an hour or so. Nearby lies the old royal palace, the Hanuman Dhoka, with the fearsome image of the black Bhairab and, in the other direction the Kumari Bahal, home of the Living Goddess.

A guided walking tour of old Kathmandu is essential to appreciate the stunning Newari architecture – each building decorated with finely carved wooden doors and windows, the rather ordinary brickwork only serving to emphasis the fine work.

Outside the city lies Bodhnath, Pashupatinath and the hilltop Swayambhunath or Monkey Temple. Bodhnath and Swayumbhunath are Buddhist temples; Bodhnath has a white stupa surmounting a mandala (the Buddhist representation of the Universe), Swayambhunath similarly has a large white dome of a stupa but also is larger with great views, many Buddhist monasteries and a huge vajra or thunderbolt together with many monkeys. Pashupatinath is a Hindu temple on the banks of the Bagmati River. Dedicated to an incarnation of Shiva it is one of the most important Hindu temples anywhere in the world and attracts many sadhus – Hindu holy men – and pilgrims as well as travellers.

The above make up some of the 7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, the others being the Durbar Squares of Patan and Bhaktapur and the Hindu temple of Changu Narayan.

Activities in Kathmandu

Allow several days to soak up the atmosphere of Kathmandu before heading out to explore further. Two-days will allow a brief walking tour of the city and visits to Bodhnath, Pashupatinath and Swayambhunath. 3 days will allow visits too to Patan or Bhaktapur or the sights outside of the valley. A week is ideal and will allow a full exploration of the Valley’s sights. Note that a local guide is recommended to appreciate the history of the sights and see some of the easily overlooked aspects of each.

Relaxing

Since the 1960’s Kathmandu’s cafes and restaurants have been famous. With buffalo steaks and superb cakes they have provided much welcome relief for trekkers on a diet of dhal bhat. Things have improved still and there are a hundreds of places to choose from catering to all tastes and budgets. Many have rooftop eating areas where a different perspective of the city and mountains beyond can be enjoyed.

Getting Around

The centre of Kathmandu is best explored on foot, with rickshaws used for forays just outside the old town. Bikes are available for hire and make a pleasant way of exploring the Valley’s country roads (though main roads in town and the main highways are heavily congested and polluted). If short of time or wanting to see much more a driver-guide is a great option.

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