Jaisalmer's Havelis Travel Guide
Travel to Jaisalmer's Havelis - Intricately Carved Mansions
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A haveli is a mansion or large house decorated in grand style and Jaisalmer has some of the very best to be found anywhere in the country. Shekhawati’s havelis are renowned for their frescoes but those in Jaisalmer are decorated with finely carved jali-work, a lacework of crafted sandstone so fine as to become a work of art.
Between the 16th and 19th centuries the rich trade routes between east and west made Jaisalmer’s shrewd merchants immensely rich. Whilst the desert was a harsh place to live, life in the city was good for the top echelon of society and as was their want they created lavish homes decorated with filigree jali-work, cupolas and ornate balustrades. Today the city’s visitors are as amazed as ever by the intricate carving on the best havelis.
Attractions in Jaisalmer's Havelis
The Nathmal Ji Ki Haveli was built by two architect brothers in the 19th century for the city-states erstwhile Prime Minister. Interestingly, while one concentrated on the right-hand side of the building, the other concentrated the left and the result is a symbiosis of design, each different but yet complimenting each other. Mighty elephants carved out of yellow sandstone stand guard to the haveli. Inside there are wonderful paintings with an extravagant use of real gold and a doorway surrounded by antique British postcards together with a picture of Queen Victoria.
The Salim Singh Ki Haveli was built some 300 years ago and lies in the east of the city. Salim Singh was a notoriously ruthless Prime Minister some 300 years ago and met his death at the behest of the maharaja. His mansion has a beautifully arched roof with superb carved brackets in the form of peacocks. A stunning cupola-covered balcony adorns the top storey. Indeed the mansion is just below the hill and it is said that once it had two additional wooden storeys in an attempt to make it as high as the maharaja's palace, but the maharaja had the upper storey torn down. The haveli is a testament to the skill and obvious love of the artisans who created the stone carvings. Part of the haveli is still occupied.
The Patwon Ki Haveli is one of the largest and most elaborate in Jaisalmer with an exuberance of lace-like jali work. Five storeys high it is extensively carved and is divided into six apartments, two owned by archaeological Survey of India, two by families who operate craft-shops and two private homes. There are remnants of paintings on some of the inside walls as well as some mirror work.
Activities in Jaisalmer's Havelis
A morning wandering the lanes and backstreets and admiring the lavish havelis is one of the highlights of a visit to Jaisalmer.
Relaxing
Once you have explored the heart of the fort there are several rooftop restaurants serving all manner of traditional food and travellers’ fare and from where you can enjoy the views whilst relaxing.
Getting Around
There is only one way to explore Jaisalmer – on foot.
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