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Jaisalmer Travel Guide

Travel to Jaisalmer - Breathtaking Desert City

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Like an unbelievable mirage the bastions and walls of Jaisalmer rise out of the wastes of the Thar Desert resembling, in an oft-used yet nevertheless accurate cliché, an Arabian Nights city. Within its walls lie stunning stone-carved havelis lining networks of twisting backstreets, a Maharaja’s Palace and numerous temples, whilst outside the desert floor gives way to dunes, water-filled tanks and remote tribal villages. The perfect spot for adventure.

Rajput ruler Rawal Jaisal, after whom the city finds its name, founded Jaisalmer in 1156. On advice of a local hermit, Eesaal, he chose the Tricut Hills as the location for his new fort abandoning his vulnerable old one at Lodurva 16 kilometres northwest. In time beautiful havelis were built by wealthy merchants their prosperity due to the city’s location on the main trade route linking India to Egypt, Arabia, Persia, Africa and the West. The Bhatti Rajput rulers lined their coffers with gains from traditional taxes on passing caravans and sometimes through illicit gains made by rustling cattle.

In the 13th century Ala-ud-din Khilji, Emperor of Delhi, besieged the fort for nine years in an effort to take back the treasure taken by the Bhatti Rajputs from his imperial caravan train. When the fall of the fort was imminent the women of the fort committed jauhar, an act of mass self-immolation, while men donned saffron robes and rode to their certain death – echoes of Chittorgarh.

Duda, son of Jaitasimha and a Bhatti hero also perished in the battle but his descendants continued to rule Jaisalmer. In 1541 they even fought Mughal Emperor Humayaun, though their relations with Mughals was not always hostile. Sabala Simha won the patronage of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan for battle distinctions in Peshawar and the right to rule Jaisalmer.

Later in the dying days of the Raj Jaisalmer was the last to sign the Instrument of Agreement with the British. The magic of Jaisalmer is self-evident, the 99 bastions of its fort standing firm as they have done for centuries against the swirling desert sands, poetry in stone.

Attractions in Jaisalmer

The old city was once completely encircled by walls, the massive golden fort, which is the essence of Jaisalmer, is entered through First Gate. It is a burrow of narrow streets complete with Jain Temples and old palaces. The main market sits below the hill. Known as Sonar Qila or the Golden Fort the edifice seems to grow from the sands. The 99 bastions envelops a whole town that consists of the Raj Mahal palace complex and havelis of rich merchants carved with an incredibly light touch together with several temples and the residential complexes of the armies and traders that once occupied it.

These buildings form the principal attractions of the town itself, but beyond the walls many more wait to be discovered. Tanks, such as the Gadi Sagar, Amar Sagar and Mool Sagar are ornate reservoirs built to capture precious rainfall and are stunning attractions in their own right. Beyond lies the sand dunes of Sam and villages such as Khuri where time seems to have stood still. The old capital of Lodurva can be visited as can the royal chattris at Bada Bagh.

The annual Desert Festival takes place in the city every year in mid-winter. Whilst not traditional in the sense that it is staged for tourists rather than growing from tradition the festival is a showcase for Rajasthani folk culture. The high points of the festival are snake charmers, puppeteers, acrobats and folk performers. Forthcoming dates are: 19-21 Feb 2008, 7-9 Feb 2009, 28-30 Jan 2010 and 16-18 Feb 2011.

Activities in Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer is the perfect place to explore by jeep or camel and after a day or so exploring the fort on foot this is the best way of seeing more of the region. Visit at the time of the Desert Festival to see even more dramatic local colour.

Relaxing

Any number of cafes and restaurants have views from within the old town of the fort and other memorable vistas.

Getting Around

The city and fort is small enough to easily explore on foot, however to see more of the desert you’ll have to take to a jeep or camel – excursions for both can be arranged. Note however that quality and reliability of service (equipment, food, itinerary) vary and it is worth making arrangements in advance (preferably from home) using the services of an operator based in Delhi but who knows the region well and who deals with European tour operators. In this way the services of locals are still used but quality is more assured.