Cappadocia Travel Guide
Mysterious Landscape of Rock-Carved Churches and Hidden Cities
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The town of Göreme lies at the heart of Cappadocia, a landscape often described as a mysterious ‘moonscape’ of dramatically-eroded mountains, and has given its name to the now internationally-recognised national park designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. This entire area is as spellbinding now as it must have been for the early Christians who carved a series of underground cities and churches into the soft rock. This same landscape provides opportunities for walking, biking or simply enjoying the region’s cultural heritage; many of the churches are beautifully painted with wonderful frescoes. Cappadocia is an absolute must for travellers who enjoy real exploration.
The Cappadocia travellers explore today was initially formed some 30 million years ago and continues to evolve even today. Covering approximately 300 square kilometres this ancient landscape was formed when volcanoes erupted to cover the area with vast quantities of ash which gradually hardened to form tufa. Lava flowed over the top of the tufa and has over time been eroded by wind and water to form the distinctive ‘fairy chimneys’ – tall columns of tufa surmounted by caps of hard rock – and other amazing landscapes we see today and which give the region its characteristic form.
This was for the Byzantines the perfect building material and they carved the soft rock into complete underground cities complete with houses, stables, store rooms and churches. Other communities created cave cities and monastic retreats such as the one at Zelve, however it is the painted churches that are perhaps for many the greatest reason to visit. A great number of the very best of these exquisite ‘buildings’ can be found in the Göreme Open-Air Museum where they predominantly date from the 9th century onwards. They contain spectacular frescoes depicting the life of Christ and the saints and are sufficient a draw to bring people from around the world, few of which leave disappointed.
Attractions in Cappadocia
The Göreme Open-Air Museum lies just a couple of kilometres from town – an easy walk. Here are some of the best painted churches, the most famous perhaps being the Karanlık Church or maybe the Tokalı Church which, in the period between the 9th and 11th centuries, was at the centre of a monastic enclave.
A similar community existed in Zelve and provides those that like scrambling and climbing on all-fours a chance to explore the troglodylte-like structure. Walkers will enjoy the 16km-long Ilhara Valley that has great views and perhaps as many as 60 rock-carved churches.
Amazingly there are around 40 underground cities in the region and two, Derinkuyu and Kaymakli, are open to visitors. Derinkuyu has around 8 storeys, 4 of which can be explored and are testament to the great ingenuity of these builders. Those travellers that visit Uçhisar will have the opportunity to climb to the top of the town’s castle where they will be rewarded with great views over the surrounding countryside, a treat that can also be enjoyed with a balloon flight over this amazing landscape.
Activities in Cappadocia
You should allow at least a full day to walk through and explore the Göreme Open-Air Museum; a guide is useful to explain its history and the significance of each church and is usually included if you are taking a sightseeing trip around Turkey. For ramblers a full-day walk through the Ilhara Valley will take you 16km along the banks of the Melindiz River which has formed a spectacular gorge punctuated by rock-churches; again a guide is useful. Zelve is easily accessible from Göreme and most people find around 3 hours gives them enough time to explore this fascinating site. The underground cities should not be missed and whilst they can be visited in a day trip most people find it more convenient to do so en route to or from Cappadocia. Finally and possibly the best way of enjoying the scenery is to take a balloon flight from where the entire panorama of Cappadocia is laid out before you.
Relaxing
Göreme is arguably the centre of things with a wide variety of restaurants and bars to choose from. Entertainment is low key in Cappadocia.
Getting Around
Dolmuşes link most areas within the core area of Cappadocia and are an effective way of exploring for those with time. Another great way to see the sites is by bike and these can be hired locally, alternatively a private tour with a driver-guide can link some of the more outlying areas such as Derinkuyu and the Ilhara Valley.
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