Banteay Chhmar Travel Guide
Faces in the Jungle
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Remote and ruined, with massive face-adorned towers and intricate bas-reliefs and slowly being shrouded in jungle vegetation Banteay Chhmar conjures up all the romanticism of a lost Khmer city. As old as other famous Khmer temples from the Angkorian period and yet less well-known Banteay Chhmar has at its centre one of the largest Buddhist monasteries of time.
The site of Banteay Chhmar - Narrow Fortress – has never been fully excavated and was inaccessible for decades due to the activities of the Khmer Rouge. It dates from the late 12th century, and is supposedly the funerary temple of King Jayarvarman VII's son, Crown Prince Indravarman who together with 4 generals were killed in the war against the Chams.
Along with its famous face-towers the temple is renowned for its bas-reliefs which cover the outer face of the enclosing gallery. Many have, however, been looted – even recently.
Attractions in Banteay Chhmar
The site is a vast jumble of galleries, gateways and gopuras. The long central sanctuary measure some 170 x 40m has interconnected galleries, gopuras and towers, both with carved faces similar in style to those at the Bayon in Angkor Thom. In one part close to the centre, three face-towers stand in isolation. The bas-relief are superb throughout the site. Most people also visit Banteay Top whilst here – site of a small but atmospheric temple 14km from Banteay Chhmar.
Activities in Banteay Chhmar
Allow 2 hours to scramble around and enjoy the site. A visit is best made with a guide who will be able to relay some of the history of the site to you.
Relaxing
You’ll likely as not have the site to yourself so it’s not hard to find a quiet place to relax and enjoy the peace of the temple complex.
Getting Around
The site lies 55km north of Sisophon and is best visited as part of an organised tour with your own transport.
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