Ani Travel Guide
Atmospheric Armenian Capital
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Intrepid travellers to eastern Turkey tend to do so with several must-see places on their itinerary and Ani is almost always one of them. This one-time Armenian capital, surrounded by impressive city walls was called ‘the city of a thousand and one churches’ but today it is a ghost city, a shell of its former self, yet still has the capacity to awe visitors.
One of the many branches of the Silk Road from China passed through Ani which in the 10th and 11th centuries was capital of the Armenian Bagratid kings. At this time, the height of its power and influence it had a population approaching 200,000 and rivalled Constantinople, something to bear in mind as you wander the ghostly ruins today. The seat of the Armenian Catholicosate was moved here in 992 and dozens of churches and other beautiful and sophisticated buildings were built. The Seljuk Turks turned their attention to Ani in 1064 and the Mongols after them but it was a great earthquake in 1319 that destroyed much of the city and Tamerlane’s attacks of the 1380 helped it along the road to destruction. Ani lost its last inhabitants sometime in the mid-18th century and in subsequent years the region was fought over by the Turks and Russians. Today the remains of the city are a haunting reminder of what can befall mankind, giving the visitor much to consider as they wander the buildings that remain.
Attractions in Ani
The ghost city sits on windswept steppe and where once people thronged now tussocks of grasses grow; the first view of Ani is simply stunning. Using ones imagination it is not too hard to imagine streets lined with shops and houses, warehouses of goods, dominated by the brooding churches that must have lined every street. Visitors enter the city through the Lion Gate, named after the stone carving of a lion on the inner wall. Once inside the chief sites of interest are the Cathedral – the largest structure in Ani, the church of St Gregory of Tigran Honents - best-preserved church in the city, the uniquely-constructed church of the Holy Redeemer - built to house a fragment of the True Cross and the Menüçar Mosque, supposedly the first Seljuk-built mosque in Turkey.
Activities in Ani
Happily permission is no longer required to visit Ani and photography is also now allowed, nonetheless visitors should bear in mind that this remains a sensitive border region. To get the most from the site arrange either a guided half-day or preferably a full-day exploration of the site or visit as part of tour of eastern Turkey.
Relaxing
Find a quiet corner in this tumbledown city to reflect on the passing of time and its ability to put our own lives into perspective – a humbling experience.
Getting Around
Travellers base themselves in Kars, 45km west of Ani. The remains are difficult to get to and you are best arranging a tour with a driver-guide. This option is much preferred as this will allow more time to explore the area and see other sites mentioned in guide books to the country. Taking a taxi or sharing a dolmuş with other travellers is the only other realistic way of getting to and from the site.
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