Getting Around Cambodia
Buses
Poor roads throughout the country have hampered the development of a widespread and convenient bus system, though it’s not all doom and gloom.
Although there are no bus services between provincial centres private buses operates between the capital and Sihanoukville, Siem Reap and Battambang. Of these opt for the A/C Express Buses which operate on a timetable system. In general they are clean and comfortable and fares are very reasonable. A word of warning though – buy tickets the day before: if the bus is full there’s no standing and you won’t get a ride.
A number of smaller, cramped city buses also operate between the capital and neighbouring towns.
Taxis
There are a wide range of shared taxis operating routes usually undertaken by buses elsewhere. These can vary from minibuses to sedan cars and pick-up trucks but are usually the white Toyotas you see: they operate on a leaves-when-full basis.
Minbuses are crowded and unpleasant – best avoided – whilst the pick-up is used on the rough country roads. Exploring by pick-up will enable you to reach the parts of Cambodia that other transport doesn’t.
Phnom Penh has regular city taxis – there are few if any elsewhere. Saying that its easy to hire a car and driver – more expensive but usually more comfortable.
The staple city transport is the moto or motorbike taxi. There are lots of motorbike riders in Cambodia, but only those with hats are moto drivers. Motos can be taken short or long distances – depending upon your stamina. Baggage is no problem – the drivers are adept at balancing backpacks! Agree the fare in advance.
Cyclos are the cycle rickshaws of Cambodia – they are a more relaxing and slightly more expensive way of getting around Phnom Penh.
Car Hire
Car hire in Cambodia is available from a couple of companies in Phnom Penh, however given the appalling state of the roads and standard of driving and the relatively low price of an experienced car and driver most people wanting their own vehicle tend to opt for the latter.
Driving
Driving is on the right-hand side of the road.
Trains
Train travel in Cambodia is basic in the extreme – there’s not much track and that that there is as poorly maintained as the locomotives and roiling stock. Delays are common and the average speed is under 25km per hour. Fares are ridiculously cheap even though foreigners are charged 3 times the local rate. There are two lines, between Phnom Penh & Battambang and between Phnom Penh & Sihanoukville via Kompot.
Boats
Where there is little in the way of train travel to enjoy Cambodia has great variety of boat journeys to discover.
The old favourite of a boat from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap (for Angkor Wat) is no longer as popular as it once was – a casualty of the improved road network between the centres. Speedboats are popular and operate between Battambang and Siem Reap – the huge sea-like Tonle Sap lake gets rough in bad weather – be warned.
A recommended boat trip is Kompong Cham to Stung Treng; further on lies Kratie – also possible to reach by boat except at the end of the dry season.
You can head to Vietnam down the Mekong from Phnom Penh as a service now links the capital with Chau Doc and there’s also a service from Sihanoukville to Koh kong.
Wherever there’s a river its worth asking what boat trips there are, but bear in mind the above warning about low water in the dry season.
