On arrival we will transfer to our comfortable hotel and look forward to the next two weeks of exploring some of the treasures of the land of the pharaohs.

We start with a journey to the Giza plateau where from time immemorial the Pyramids and Sphinx have gazed out over the city. Controversy rages about just how these wonders of the ancient world were built, some 4,500 years ago. Brave travellers can elect to pay extra to enter one of the Pyramids, deep into the crypt where the pharaoh once laid. Another option is to see the remains of the solar barques the oldest ships in the world, located in a museum at the site. Of course we also see the Sphinx, now slowly decaying after millennia of erosion by the desert sands.

After our visit we head into the heart of this teeming city of millions, to the Egyptian Museum, the world’s greatest repository of pharaonic finds. Here we wander the halls in search of sarcophagi and pharaohs’ gold, the jewel in the crown of which is that belonging to the boy-king Tutankhamun.

Later we board the comfortable sleeper train to head south along the ribbon of the Nile to Upper Egypt and Aswan.

We arrive in Aswan around 10am and after a short transfer to our hotel set out to visit Philae Temple. Located a few kilometres south of town and reached by road and boat this must be Egypt’s most romantic temple. Located on an island, the temple was moved, stone by stone, from its original location nearby to save it from the rising waters created by Aswan’s High Dam. It’s both atmospheric and beautiful at the same time, a real testament to ancient and modern engineering techniques.

Next we make a camel trek to St Simeon’s monastery located in the desert on the west bank opposite Aswan town. Later we return to Aswan and this evening cross the Nile by motor launch to join a Nubian family for dinner. This is responsible tourism at work both serving to break down barriers between cultures as well as providing a valuable income to the family. They love meeting visitors and the time spent with them is usually a highlight of a visit to Aswan, especially when visiting as part of a small group of friends or family.

This morning we have the opportunity to visit Abu Simbel, Ramses the Great’s vast temple complex close to the Sudanese border on an optional trip. The trip by road takes several hours; that by air just one hour, indicating the extent of ancient Egypt’s borders. Once at Abu Simbel we gaze in wonder at the size and splendour of these massive temples, testaments to his power and designed to impress invaders heading north.

Returning to Aswan we are at leisure until the souqs reopen after the hottest part of the day. All manner of goods are on display catering to both locals and travellers and it’s a great place to stock up on spices at bargain prices. Be warned though – haggling is expected!

The felucca is a traditional lateen-sailed vessel used since time immemorial to transport goods and people along the Nile. Powered solely by the wind the deck of our feluccas is covered in mattresses and sheets, with baggage stowed beneath the decks. An awning acts as a sunshade. Delicious, simple meals are cooked by the two-man crew on board. In the evening we pull into the bank, make a campfire, and enjoy a beer or two; the crew will almost certainly bound to get out their drums as music is integral in Nubian culture. We sleep on deck and we set up a toilet tent on the banks of the river. Each felucca can accommodate around 7 passengers in addition to the crew. There are of course no facilities to shower; washing takes place at the water’s edge.

Each day we sail with the wind downstream. Our progress is governed by the amount of wind and thus the journey should be seen as an experience rather than a way of getting from Aswan to Edfu. We pause en route to explore the camel market at Daraw and the great ‘crocodile temple’ of Kom Ombo. Swimming in the Nile is generally safe if you adhere to the advice of the Captain, who will know the safest areas.

This is a great way to see the river as we tack gently from bank to bank past fields of crops such as sugar cane. Look out for the little egret and kingfishers poised to take fish, and enjoy the company of local kids who often visit us round our campfire at night.

We finally arrive at or close to Edfu, site of a huge temple dedicated to Horus. After a visit we head north to Luxor, ancient Thebes. Here we join horse-drawn carriages called caleshes as we ride the 3km to Karnak Temple. Once an avenue of sphinxes linked the two great temples of Karnak and Luxor and a project is ongoing to re-link them. We enter through this famous avenue to explore the vast interior of the temple. Highlights include the grand Hypostyle Hall, where dozens of massive pillars once held aloft the roof, Hatshepsut’s obelisk and the Sacred Pool.

As the sun climbs into the sky we cross the Nile this morning to join our donkeys for the ride to the Valley of the Kings. The donkeys follow the path taken by the original workers who built the tombs those many thousand years ago. On arrival we can choose to enter 3 of the tombs currently open and descend into the earth, past stunning scenes painted on the walls of the shafts, deep into the tombs of the pharaohs themselves. The detail and quality of the artwork is amazing, made more so by its antiquity. This is truly a highlight of any visit to Luxor.

Our return journey takes us down to the wonderful temple of Hatshepsut, Egypt’s only female pharaoh. Here we see the famous frieze which shows the trading expedition to the Land of Punt.

This morning why not treat yourself to an optional balloon flight over the countryside and villages of the west bank for a different perspective on the Nile Valley.

Later we set off for the long drive to the Red Sea coast at Al Quseir, a small, laid back town south of Safaga and Hurghada. On arrival we see just why this part of the world is so attractive to visitors, with a shimmering sea and coral gardens below the waves.

The Red Sea coast is world famous for its stunning underwater marine life with brilliantly coloured fishes and corals to delight the snorkeller and diver (both activities are available here but if you want to dive you must do so leaving one clear day before flying). A variety of different trips are available from simple days out snorkelling to boat trips to the reefs further north. Your guide will be able to make arrangements for you. For those that want to explore the little visited south a safari to the Wadi Hammamat can be arranged where pharaonic-era graffiti can be seen.

Today is a travelling day as we make the long journey back to Cairo. The journey takes around 10 hours by road. Subject to availability the journey can be made by air at a supplement.

Our last full day is spent at leisure. You may like to shop in the souqs of Islamic Cairo for oriental souvenirs, visit the dramatically located Citadel or make a trip out to Saqqara and the less visited pyramids further south at Dahshur. Cairo is overflowing with attractions with several museums, such as the excellent Beit al Suhaymi ‘museum’, to discover along with the Cities of the Dead, countless mosques, the Street of the Tentmakers and Fishawi’s coffee-shop – the perfect end to a journey with many highlights.