On arrival we transfer to our comfortable cruise-boat for the first of 4 nights on board. Accommodation and facilities are comfortable and generally consist of twin cabins with en-suite facilities, air conditioning, a small swimming pool, deck bars and restaurants. The boats are perfect for families, with pools to splash around in after a day’s sightseeing.

Depending on our time of arrival the remainder of the day is free to explore. A wander down into the main souq or market is a must – a heady atmosphere of tourist trappings, fruit and veg, local shops and the traditional coffee-houses thronged with be-turbaned men smoking hubbly-bubbly sheesha pipes.

Luxor, ancient Thebes! For those that wish to there is first the opportunity to take an optional hot-air balloon ride, the perfect way to get your bearings of this ancient capital and a thrilling ride to boot.

Later we take a horse-drawn carriage called a calesh locally as we ride the 3km to Karnak Temple. Once an avenue of sphinxes linked the two great temples of Karnak and Luxor and a project is ongoing to re-link them. We enter through this famous avenue to explore the vast interior of the temple. Highlights include the grand Hypostyle Hall, where dozens of massive pillars once held aloft the roof, Hatshepsut’s obelisk and the Sacred Pool.

As the sun climbs into the sky we cross the Nile this morning to join our donkeys for the ride to the Valley of the Kings. The donkeys follow the path taken by the original workers who built the tombs those many thousand years ago.

On arrival we can choose to enter 3 of the tombs currently open and descend into the earth, past stunning scenes painted on the walls of the shafts, deep into the tombs of the pharaohs themselves. The detail and quality of the artwork is amazing, made more so by its antiquity. This is truly a highlight of any visit to Luxor.

Our return journey takes us down to the wonderful temple of Hatshepsut, Egypt’s only female pharaoh. Here we see the famous frieze which shows the trading expedition to the Land of Punt.

Later we set of south towards the temple-town of Edfu. This is the perfect way to see the Nile Valley as small villages slip by as you enjoy sunsets much as the early Victorian travellers before you did.

If not done yesterday we start with a visit to the temple at Edfu, to enter the great pylon gateways of the massive Horus temple. Later we continue south passing fields of sugar cane and lush green vegetables grown in the fertile silt deposited by the Nile over many millennia.

We arrive at Kom Ombo whose temple is unusual in that it is dedicated to two gods, Haroeris and the crocodile-headed god, Sobek. Our time aboard the boat is a great opportunity to relax, enjoying the evening as the sun sets behind the palms as you sip a sundowner. Later we arrive at Aswan

This morning we have the opportunity to visit Abu Simbel, Ramses the Great’s vast temple complex close to the Sudanese border on an optional trip. The trip by road takes several hours; that by air just one hour, indicating the extent of ancient Egypt’s borders. Once at Abu Simbel we gaze in wonder at the size and splendour of these massive temples, testaments to his power and designed to impress invaders heading north.

Later we return to Aswan and this evening cross the Nile by motor launch to join a Nubian family for dinner. This is responsible tourism at work, both breaking down barriers between cultures as well as providing a valuable income to the family. They love meeting visitors and the time spent with them is usually a highlight of a visit to Aswan, especially when visiting as part of a small group of friends or family.

This morning we set off by boat for the west bank and climb aboard our ‘ships of the desert’ to make the half-hour or so camel trek to St Simeon’s Monastery, located on the fringes of the vast Western Desert. This is an atmospheric visit made all the more enjoyable by the antics of its eccentric guardian who explains the history in his own, unique way!

This evening we board the train and travel north to Luxor.

Today has been left free to spend at leisure or exploring the wonders of this town further. There’s lots to do, from hiring a calesh to explore outlying villages, visit a local farm or take in the other Pharaonic sites of west bank, such as Medinat Habu or Deir el Medina.