Shekhawati Travel Guide
Frescoed Villages of North Rajasthan
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Shekhawati is located in the triangle that lies between Delhi, Bikaner and Jaipur and is a semi-desert region taking its name after its erstwhile ruler Rao Shekha. Shekhawati means “the garden of Shekha” and this is rural Rajasthan at its very best – small towns and villages where life goes on much as it has for centuries. The towns of Shekhawati are of interest to the traveller too, for many of the larger houses, or havelis, are painted with astonishing murals and there are countless palaces and forts to discover too.
Shekhawati has been dubbed an "open-air art gallery" where a plethora of painted havelis dating from the 18th century to early 20th century are decorated with frescos.
The history of these mansions is tied up with the British who by the beginning of the 19th century had established major ports at Kolkata and Mumbai and which were able to handle larger volumes of trade than ports in Gujarat. Moreover with Jaipur reducing its levies the Shekhawati route was almost abandoned by traders. However the Shekhawati merchants who were seasoned businessmen migrated en masse to the more lucrative centres of Calcutta and Bombay. Here they earned unparallel wealth and sent huge sums home, which were used for building havelis, social welfare, wells, reservoirs, schools etc. This money also paid for the decoration of their mansions.
Fresco themes include mythological stories and some latter day examples show the arrival of the British and highlight new methods of transport such as the train. Rajput households mostly depicted themes based on historical events, folk-heroes and prominent war scenes, while the Marwaris concentrated more on religious themes; with the passage of time the themes too began to divert towards the modern views.
The region is also packed with forts, minor castles, mosques, step-wells (baoris) and cenotaphs for local rulers (chhatris) all waiting for the traveller to discover. One of the nicest things about a visit to the region is the opportunity to glimpse cameo images of traditional Rajasthani life – women in colourful local dress collecting water from the village well in terracotta pots and men in brightly coloured turbans with fine handlebar moustaches. Shekhawati is a feast for the senses.
Attractions in Shekhawati
The best known towns are Mandawa, Nawalgarh, Fatehpur, Dundlod and Jhunjhunu – each with its own appeal.
Activities in Shekhawati
A stay in the region should extend to at least 2 or better still 3 days if time allows. This will allow a thorough exploration by car with a driver-guide.
Relaxing
The region has some excellent heritage hotels converted from ancient palaces and forts and make great places to relax in at the end of a long day’s sightseeing.
Getting Around
Shekhawati is by far and away best explored with the freedom afforded by your own transport, in the form of a car and driver/guide. Those relying on public transport should note that connections are not as frequent as elsewhere in this predominantly rural area and should plan their itinerary accordingly.
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