Travel Essentials: India

India holds virtually every kind of landscape imaginable. An abundance of mountain ranges and national parks provide ample opportunity for eco-tourism and trekking, and its sheer size promises something for everyone. From north to south India extends a good 3200km (2000 miles).

The Himalayas dominate India's northern border. Following the sweeping mountains to the northeast, its borders narrow to a small channel that passes between Nepal, Tibet, Bangladesh, and Bhutan, then spreads out again to meet Burma in the "eastern triangle." Here in the mountains there are 4 seasons with summer temperatures similar to those in Northern Europe, with warm summers (and freezing nights the higher one travels) and icy cold winters, cold enough to freeze rivers.

In the west and centre there is generally little rainfall except during the summer monsoon period. Winter days are generally warm and dry with average highs of 25°c; nights are much cooler at this time of the year with lows of 5°c to 8°c common – fog can be common at this time of the year.

With March comes the hotter weather, with temperatures rising rapidly in the space of a few weeks. Temperatures in March and April rise through the high 30s°c peaking in May and June when 50°c is not unknown and with night-time lows temperatures as high as 30°c.

The hot weather is the precursor to the monsoon which brings cooling rains and flash floods and swimming streets between June and mid-September. At this time the humidity also rises, but it is a little cooler, with daytime temperatures falling back to the 30s°c.

The north-east is known for its hot temperatures and abundant rainfall, with the monsoon only giving even more rain to Assam and the states to the east.

From Mumbai south we are into a tropical climate with rain falling at any time of the year and temperatures becoming less extreme as one heads south. By the time we arrive in Kerala we have swaying palms and golden beaches that can be enjoyed year round with temperatures in the 30s°c year round, falling back to the high-teens at night.

The best months to visit the central plains of Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh are October and November and February and March when the weather is at its best. At this time days are sunny and warm and the nights are cool. The winter months of December and January are equally pleasant but it is cooler, even cold with daytime temperatures struggling to make 20°c.

Travel is possible during the hot summer months of April to September, but air-conditioned transport and hotel accommodation is essential; in the monsoon months allow for a disrupted itinerary too as roads are often flooded as rivers break their banks.

Head to the mountains in the north between May and September and to the south at any time of the year.

Republic Day

Independence Day

Gandi Jayanti

Christmas Day

Boxing Day

Swings are hung from trees and decorated with flowers to welcome the advent of the monsoon. Women swing on them and sing songs in celebration.

A dazzling spectacle and one not to be missed as cattle and camels are traded before a huge festival takes place on the banks of Pushkar Lake. It's a riot of colour and atmosphere but is essential to book accommodation early as even the tent-city erected for Western visitors gets booked up. If you are in India at this time - don't miss it!

Nagaur, a small town in centre north Rajasthan bursts into life with the coming of the annual fair. Much like Pushakar Fair its a mix of serious business and fun - and a very colourful spectacle. Expect tugs of war, camel races and music and dance.

The Desert Festival is a 3-day medley of colour and music and festivity held at the desert city of Jaisalmer. Amazingly colourful as are all of Rajasthan's festivals there are numerous events to enjoy.

Held every year during Holi t Jaipur Elephant Festival a medley of elephants, dancers, musicians and draws visitors from all over the world. The elephants parade through the streets, elaborately decorated with glittering ornaments and embroidered velvets, followed by lively folk dancers.The unique "Gaj Shringar" exhibition displays everything connected with the elephant-ornaments, textiles (jhoo), howdahs and carriages, paintings, medicines and food.

Holi heralds the end of the winter and the beginning of the spring and is possibly the most lively of all Hindu festivals, observed all over north India. It is a festival of joy when the night before full moon crowds of people gather together and light huge bonfires to burn the residual dried leaves and twigs of the winter. People throw coloured powders and water at each other, visitors included - so beware! Singing and dancing add to the occasion.