Istanbul, Constantinople, once capital of the Roman, the Byzantine and the Ottoman Empires, gateway to Asia, and standing at the mouth of the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn, has seen more history than most other cities. The name conjures up exotic images of sultans and their harems, and romantic images of the Orient Express. I wasn't sure what to expect, even after seeing tons of photos on the internet and reading the usual travel guides, but it had been on my list of 'cities to see' for some time. It was an easy 3 hour flight to Ataturk from LHR, and a short 20 minute taxi journey to the B&B set in the heart of Sultanahmet, the old town.Day 1: Our first day was spent with the other tourists (and for the low season there were SO many, I wouldn't want to go in the summer months!) exploring the Sultanahmet area. In the centre of this stands The Blue Mosque (called blue because of the thousands of tiles on the interior) and the Aya Sofia (oldest Orthodox Christian church -10YTL entry fee) facing each other across a small park. Nearby is the Basilica Cistern (10 YTL), an ancient underground reservoir only rediscovered, restored and opened as an attraction relatively recently. Atmospherically lit and with soft music playing, and with a small cafe near the exit, this is an interesting place to while away a hour, and in the hot summer months must be a welcome escape from the heat. Note to caffeine junkies, Starbucks is on the right side of Divan Yolu Caddesi walking away from the Blue Mosque.In the afternoon we walked down the hill (Istanbul is built on 7 hills) to Eminonu, the bustling waterfront where many ferries arrive and depart to other areas of the city. This turned out to be my favourite area of the city, with stunning views across the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn; simit (bread rings coated with sesame seeds) and roasted chestnut stalls, and the famous fish sandwich sellers.Day 2: Took a 2 hour tourist ferry up the Bosphorus, past Dolmabahce Palace, Ortakoy mosque and under the landmark Bosphorus Bridge thats links the two continents, to Rumeli Hisari (fort), and back down the Anatolian side. It was freezing but Turkish tea was available on board to purchase, and the sun was still out. Another fish sandwich gave us the energy for the climb up to Galata Tower, stopping for a huge cake and Turkish tea overlooking the city from the rooftop restaurant of Galata Konak, eight floors of stairs up but well worth it! The queue to the top of the tower was huge even at 4pm, and this was low season, so we left that for another trip! You get a similar view from the Konak anyway and it's much more comfortable. Next, we walked along what is the equivalent of Oxford Street in London (the nicer end) Istiklal Caddesi (Independence Avenue) to Taksim Square. The road is completely pedestrianised except for the ancient tram that runs the length from Tunel to Taksim. Note three Starbucks outlets on Istiklal Cad. A very different city to Sultanahmet!Day 3: More sightseeing in Sultanahmet; Topkapi Sarayi (palace), home to the Sultans (10 YTL entry and extra each 10YTL for the Harem and Treasury). Mosaics and painted domes and ceilings in abundance. We didn't do the full tour, but you could easily spend all day here More great views over the city and Bosphorus from the gardens. After this tourist overdose we went local and caught the public ferry to Uskudar on the Anatolian side (1.30 YTL), yet another contrasting side to this city. We took a different ferry back to Europe and the area of Kabatas. This is close to the Istanbul Modern but we were out of time and jumped on a tram (one price per journey 1.30YTL) back to Sultanahmet. It was New Year's eve and we were booked into a local restaurant!! New Year's Eve: 1st Course – a selection of 15 individual dishes with 4 small portions of different fish, decent red wine and raki. 2nd Course- calamari, octopus (limb!), and dolmas; red wine and raki! Main course: choice of sea bass, tuna or anchovy; red wine and raki! Dessert – very sweet but we have no idea what it was, and Turkish tea! Throughout the meal we were serenaded by two gypsy bands, singing obviously well known songs as all the locals in the restaurant joined in, clapping and dancing. Midnight was approaching and the waiters brought round our coats and we were ushered out into the street to join with the local residents, the bands and a belly dancer around a bonfire for the countdown. Champagne and fireworks and a lot more dancing!New Year's Day (Day 4): Souvenir buying, a last stroll to Eminonu and a simit; and a long look back to a city I know I will have to return to. We saw and did so much in a few days but there is still a lot more left to experience. A long weekend like ours is just about enough time to get a taste of Istanbul and to fall in love with it, so go and experience it!
On the streets of Istanbul, dancing round a fire with the locals, sipping on champagne whilst fireworks light up the sky; now that sounds like a great alternative way to celebrate new years eve! Great blog!
Did you take any pictures of the view from the Galata Tower or when you were on the ferry? Would love to see them, sounds like a wonderful trip!
The pics are great. I love the sundown pic!
