CLIMBING MT. ARARAT - MOUNT ARARAT EXPEDITIONS

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Thursday, 4th December 2008

The 5137 meter high Mt. Ararat (Turkish: Buyuk Agri Dagi) is the highest mountain in Turkey. For European alpinists it is the nearest mountain in this height category.

Climbing Mount Ararat does not represent a major challenge for people in good physical condition. It is not necessary to have a high level of technical knowledge or climbing skills. Experience in hill walking is of advantage. However, one basic requirement is a very good state of fitness and stamina. Above 5,000m the air is very thin, it becomes more difficult to breathe and every step is strenuous.

Climbing Mt. Ararat summit requires very good stamina and good physical condition of all participants, but no special alpinist skills. For an optimal acclimatisation to this extreme altitude a targeted training is recommended.

The climb is long, but there is a fairly easy route from the south in late summer for climbers who are familiar with the use of axe and crampons. Snow covers the last 400 m (¼ mile) year-round. There are two possible campsites on the mountain, and the glacier begins around 4,800 m (15,750 ft). The Turkish government requires a climbing permit and use of a certified Turkish guide. Arrangements can take two months to complete.

Mt Ararat offers a challenging climb. Unlike the Kackars, it has no green glens, canyons, rivers, lakes, or waterfalls. It is a bare mountain with a majestic peak which is difficult to reach.

Water is sparse on the mountain. In general, it is very difficult to find water outside the designated camp grounds. Since the source for this water is melted "wormy" snow, drinking it may cause diarrhea. Therefore it is advisable to bring filters and/or disinfectants.

Mount Ararat / Mount Agri is covered with volcanic rocks. It exhibits the characteristics of all volcanic mountains, that is, slopes with a gentle initial incline become steep very quickly as the elevation increases. There are no trees on this mountain, climbers should not dream of resting on green grass under a shade tree.

There is 2 main camp site over south route. 3100m and 4200m. The greenest area is at camp 3100m, and it is only 1000 sqm. It is used for tents only. Camp 4200 m is rocky. The space for 20-30 tents is packed earth which has been cleared of rocks. If needed, one can pitch tents on leveled rocks. It is difficult to sleep at this camp, because of sulphorous emissions from the rocks.

Environmental protection is not enforced. Therefore one frequently encounters garbage. There are no rest areas for toilet facilities, but the dirt accumulated in secluded spots used for bathroom purposes, is washed away with the winter snow.

The southern route from camp 3200 to the peak is equipped with signs bearing the coordinates. But most of the posts have been demolished either by people or the harsh winds.

The view from the peak, on a clear day, is extraordinary. To the east and south you can see into Iran and Armenia , the Suphan dag and sometime the Lake Van . To the north, the Kackar Mountains and the Caucuses may be visible.

Ararat Mountain generates its own weather conditions; it is not wise to depend on weather forecasts. The peak is subject to severe winds, and sudden changes in temperature. Every year several deaths have been recorded due to weather conditions. One has to be equipped for the worst, and one has to know when to quit.

After you leave Dogubeyazit, you can reach the village of Eli at 2200m. In fact the road could take you to 2800m but the severe winter of 2002 season damaged the higher portion of the road. That is to say to one has to walk after reaching 2200m.

Serious climbers will no doubt wish to discover Turkey's most challenging peaks, the best known of which is Mount Ararat or Agri Dagi, which is the country's highest peak. The summit of Ararat was first climbed by Dr Parrot, a German, in 1829 and has been popular with international climbers ever since. The best time of year is between June and September being the most pleasant months. The ascent is non-technical although it does include some rough terrain. The southern face of the mountain offers the easiest and safest ascent to the summit, as it has the best routes as well as having safer communication and transportation systems. It is not advised to climb Mount Agri (Ararat) alone and without a guide. You will, in any case, need official permission for the climb.

WINTER ASCENTS

Doing a winter ascent of Ararat can be compared to a 7000 meter mountain in summer conditions. Prepare yourself for tough conditions: The weather may be very cold (down to minus 30-40 degrees centigrade) and windy. To do a successful winter ascent, you will need a strong psychology and very good physical condition.

SKIING / SKI-TOURING FROM ARARAT MOUNTAIN

The best season for the ski-climbing to Ararat begins in April and runs until end of May. The weather can be snowy in the middle of April; however, it is possible to ski touring to the summit. Usually the snow is starting at 2700-2800 meters, which is why we pitch the tents at 2800 meters for Camp1. We are using porters for the luggages until 3800m camp site. Snow conditions are excellent and offer high quality, fresh powder sometimes hard. The skiers can downhill from the top (5137m) until 2800 meters. Some of the ski-climb skiers will need ski-crampons after Camp 2 for the summit trail.

PERMIT PROCEDURE FOR MT ARARAT

As it is well known, the Ararat Mountain which had been a favorite for climbers until 1980 was closed to the public during the Kurdish insurgence. It was reopened to visitors in 2001 when security in the area was reestablished. Nevertheless, to ensure continuance of security, visits to Mount Ararat are now under strict government control.

Individual climbers are subject to security investigation and only those who are approved are allowed to visit.

Foreigners traveling alone who wish to climb Mt. Ararat should apply to the Turkish consulate in their country and apply for an "ARARAT CLIMBING" visa. Even individuals from those countries that do not require an entry visa to Turkey, should have their passports stamped with a special purpose visa by the Turkish consulate in their own countries. Applications made through the consulate are then sent to the office of the General Staff of Turkey, the Ministry of Interior Affairs, and the Ministry of Tourism. Those applications that are approved are then forwarded to the office of the governor of Agri city and the local military police. The same documents are sent to the Turkish consulate of the originating country. Upon entry to Turkey these special visas are shown to the appropriate offices.

These procedures take up to two months, but if you go with an agency all these procedures will result faster.

After you leave Dogubayazit, you have to show your documents to the border police; without their permission you cannot start your climb. Permission is necessary to keep the number of climbers at a certain level and is given at first come first served basis. In other words, even if you have all your documents in order, you may not get to climb because of the number of people on the mountain.

If you prefer to join an expedition arranged by a travel company it is enough to give the company the information on your passport. The company will carry out the proper procedures in you name. This is the easiest way to obtain the necessary visas and permissions.

It is our strong recommendation that you join a group arranged by a travel company. Not only do the government officials look kindly on individuals applying through an approved travel agency, but it is the safest way to climb the mountain.

SEASON AND WEATHER

Ararat is a dormant volcano; the last eruption was on June 2, 1840. At present the upper third of the mountain is covered with snow all the time; the last hundred meters of snow at the top have turned to ice. For climbers on the mountain, fresh running water is available after the sun has been up a while to melt the snow, but it is cut off in the late afternoon when cold air has overcome the heat of the sun. Below the snow the slopes are covered with great blocks of black basalt rock, some as large as village houses.

Because of its high elevation and its distance to the sea, the climate is harsh. Summers are short, hot and dry, and winters are long, snowy and very cold.

There is a large shift between day and night time temperatures. Spring and fall are rainy and mild. The coldest temperatures in the country are recorded here at, (-430-450) degrees centigrade... The mean temperature in this land that belongs in the terrestrial climate region of Turkey is 6.10 centigrade.

The air in Igdir, which is on the northern slopes of the mountain, is hazy and cold. Dogubeyazit, on the other hand, which is situated on the southern slope, boasts of clear skies and warm weather. On days when one needs a heavy coat in Igdir, in Dogubeyazit, one can enjoy a walk under clear and sunny skies wearing just a shirt.

Ararat Mountain creates its own weather conditions; meteorological broadcasts are not to be trusted. The peak is visited frequently by harsh winds, and weather can change in a split second. Every year several deaths are reported due to
changing weather conditions prevailing on the mountain. One needs to be prepared and not overly insistent about climbing to the top.

In summer, the glacier on the peak is subjected to bright sun in the day time and below freezing temperatures in the night. The ice is glass-like. If the temperatures are mild in the day, footing may become softer, but in all conditions one needs to wear crampons. When the conditions are for glass-ice, crampons are not sufficient; and rope stations have to be established. One of the best known mountaineers has lost his life for this reason.. Some times if there is snow-fall at night, conditions become better for the climb to the peak.

The winds at the peak are so fierce and cold that regular goretex mountaineering coats are like a sieve offering no protection. One can be frozen in ten minutes in a bona-fide storm. One has to stay home under such extremely windy
conditions, or be heavily protected. Of course, proper clothing does not stave off all the danger, because there is always the danger of losing ones balance and falling off the glacial passes.

If you want to climb in winter you should know that no mules can be used, only porters are available, so all services fee will be doubled.

Best season for ski from top is May.

Every 30th August there is a traditional climb for the Victory Day. People aim to be in top on 30th August. So be aware not to go between 28 Agust-02 Sep. Because hundreds of mountaineer will be there and not enough space for tents.

SOUTHERN ROUTE

The Southern route is the easiest and by far the most popular one; therefore we will describe it in detail.

The Southern route of Ararat starts in Dogubayazit. It is rated 1 (easiest in the snow), but the difficulty is in acclimatization and the changeable weather conditions. Ararat, at an elevation of 5137 meters, is the highest mountain in Turkey by 1000 meters. The climb becomes very steep very fast, and most mountaineers are quickly affected by mountain sickness.

AKUT (search and rescue unit) erected sign posts at every 100 meters. These signs, which denote the altitude, irritate some of the purist climbers, but are helpful in showing the correct way up the mountain. Unfortunately, some of the signs have been damaged; it is not advisable to depend on them entirely for the climb to the peak.

The first stop after leaving Dogubayazit is the village of Eli. Eli is 2 hours by truck or minibus from Dogubeyazit. Camp at 3200m. (called Green Camp as well) is one of the rare places where you can find greenery and water. It is generally crowded and dirty. Since there are no toilet facilities, almost all the crevices (spaces) beneath the rocks have been used as such.

From camp 3200, a 3 hour walk on a steep and rocky path will take you to camp 4200. (Notice that the small 400m elevation difference between Eli and camp 3200 is traversed in 4 hours, and the 1000 m difference and between camps 3200 and 4200 takes and equal amount of time.)

The day of the climb to the peak, you should start with the first lights of dawn. The walk between camp 4200 and 4950m where the glacier starts is very steep and rocky. You put on your crampons at 4900 m. The last bit of the climb is relatively easy with a gentle grade. The first peak you will encounter when you enter the glacier is called Inonu peak. The main peak is to your left. You reach the main peak after you pass Inonu peak, enter the cone (crater) and walk a short distance on the flat and then up a slight incline. The climb from camp 4200 to the main peak takes about 5-6 hours.

The descent is almost as hard as the ascent; toes and knees suffer. The route is the same in reverse.

OTHER ROUTES

You may want to use the alternate routes to the Southern route, namely the Eastern and Western routes. Beware that they are not used often; the valleys and the plateaus at the lower skirts of the mountain have been poorly kept up because of infrequent use.

The eastern route, which is relatively popular, starts at the valley of Aras on the northern side. It continues through Serdarbulak through a deep pit (Mine Shaft) to the pass between the Little and Great Ararat mountains. The route then follows a terraced slope and reaches a rock formation known as the Rock Church. After that comes a long glacial slope, to the left there is a path of loose rocks, which will take you to the peak.

The Northwestern route starts at a small village between Igdir and Dogubayazit and follows the route to Lake Kup. This lake is usually used as a camp ground. You leave the vast flat ground around the lake, take a steep glacial and rocky road to first peak Inonu and then to the main peak.

The Northern route starts at Igdir; it is a difficult, technical climb on a glacial route to the right (east) of an impressively empty valley. The weather on the Northern route offers even more difficult conditions than on the Southern route. During the spring and summer months, the melted snow carries literally rivers of ice blocks and rocks into the valleys. Therefore it is strongly advised that you do not enter the valleys but keep to the ridges.

On the north side, Ararat has its roots in the Araxes (Aras) River valley. There it rises from the valley elevation of about 760 meters above sea level. In that area the Araxes River is the border demarcation between Turkey and Russia. The top of the mountain is only about 30 kilometers from the border. For some years both the Turkish and the Soviet governments have been touchy about foreigners exploring on Ararat because of military security precautions. Therefore it was difficult to get permission to climb it for sports fans. On 1st of November 2004 Ararat Mountain and surroundings were declared as the 35th National Park of Turkey by the Government so it's believed that it will attract more visitors and help to the local economy as well. So far there are no ski resorts on the mountain but you never know, maybe one day... The nearest one is on Bubi Mountain which is open from December till April.

What is the different between Ararat North Route (Korhan) and Classic South Route?

For many years the companies have only organized the tours from the classic south side of Ararat Mountain. The reason is, everything is easier on the south side, especially when carrying all the equipment with horses until high camp (4170m). Also there are many local people working on this business. Climbing to the summit is also easier because of walking on the trail. It is not a technical climb and you will need crampons only after 4970 meter and for a maximum of 45 minutes walk.

At the north side the horses can only transfer until 3700 meters. At this point we have two choices. The first is to pitch tents at 3700 meters and start the summit climb from here. The second option is to use porters after 3.700 and up to 4250 meters, and set up high camp in front of the great glacier of Mt. Ararat. If we do this, the summit climb starts directly on the glacier. You will need to use your crampons from here to the summit. It is not really steep but you will need to have crampon walking experience on the glacier. There are some cracks, but not large and deep. However, they can be dangerous when descending if snow closed on one of the crevasses.

Not many people are interested in and have the advanced climbing skills necessary for this route. Understandably, this is why companies don't want to organize this tour.

LITTLE ARARAT

Little Ararat is closed to climbers.

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Anatolian

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